KUMIHIMO

Kumihimo, meaning “gathered threads” in Japanese, is a traditional braiding technique that developed in Japan to produce strong, reliable cords.
Originally, kumihimo was used for practical purposes such as securing armor and swords, where durability and structural integrity were essential.

During Japan’s feudal period, braided cords played an important functional role and were also used to convey formality and distinction. As the use of armor declined, kumihimo found new applications in traditional Japanese clothing, particularly in kimono, where braided cords became essential elements for fastening and finishing garments.

Over time, kumihimo techniques diversified, and artisans began working with materials such as silk, cotton, and later synthetic fibres. While styles and patterns evolved, the defining feature remained the same: a continuous, precisely constructed cord created under controlled tension.

Today, kumihimo is appreciated both in Japan and internationally, not only as a cultural craft but as a cord-making technique valued for its balance of strength, flexibility, and refined appearance.
In modern professional contexts, kumihimo is increasingly regarded as a material—evaluated by structure, consistency, and performance—rather than solely as a traditional craft or decorative practice.

History of Kumihimo

Because kumi-himo had been an everyday item for Japanese people, research on its history did not progress until recently. However, due to the efforts of enthusiastic researchers, the ancient technique of kumi-himo has been brought to the forefront of attention and is now better understood in the present day.

One of the techniques associated with kumi-himo is finger weaving, known as kuteuchi. This technique was widely used for creating various types of cords, especially during the Edo period (1603-1867). Many cords for armors were intricately made using this braided cord technique, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined the era.

Kuteuchi, with its intricate patterns and complicated weaving process, played a significant role not just in the practical aspect of creating cords but also in the cultural and artistic expressions of the time. These cords were often used for decorative purposes, symbolizing status, and were coveted for their exquisite designs.

In the Edo period (1603-1867), with the concentration of samurai in Edo, the demand for braided cords exploded, and the slow production methods of the past could no longer cope. Therefore, artisans invented a device to produce Kumi-himo more efficiently. The “Takadai,” “Marudai,” and “Ayatake-dai,” which we can still see today, are uniquely Japanese braiding machines.

These braiding machines revolutionized the production of Kumi-himo, a traditional Japanese braiding technique that has been cherished for centuries. With the invention of these devices, samurai and other noblemen could obtain finely crafted cords much faster, ensuring a steady supply for their lavish garments and accessories.

The Takadai, Marudai, and Ayatake-dai are all examples of intricate braiding machines meticulously crafted by skilled artisans. The Takadai, meaning “high stand,” is a tall, vertical wooden frame with multiple adjustable poles and weighted bobbins. This machine allows for the creation of complex patterns and designs by controlling the tension and positioning of the cords.

On the other hand, the Marudai, meaning “round stand,” consists of a round wooden top with holes where the bobbins are inserted. Beneath the top is a weighted base, providing stability as the braiding process unfolds. This machine is particularly suitable for creating thicker cords and more straightforward designs.

Lastly, the Ayatake-dai is a portable version of the braiding machine, designed for ease of use and convenience. It features a compact and collapsible frame, allowing artisans to take their craft wherever they go.

These braiding machines are a testament to the ingenious craftsmanship and ingenuity of Japanese artisans during the Edo period. Despite being developed centuries ago, they continue to be used today, preserving the traditions and techniques of Kumi-himo. The intricate patterns and designs produced using these machines are a reflection of the rich cultural heritage of Japan and serve as a reminder of the artistic skill and dedication of its people.

So, the Takadai, Marudai, and Ayatake-dai remain not only as functional braiding machines but also as cherished symbols of Japanese culture and craftsmanship. They serve as a link between the past and the present, allowing us to appreciate the beauty and complexity of Kumi-himo, a timeless art form that continues to captivate hearts around the world.

Today, the art of Japanese braided cords embodies a captivating blend of tradition and innovation. There are two splendid ways in which these cords are crafted: the revered “hand-kumihimo” technique, where each cord is meticulously braided by skilled artisans using age-old tools, and the remarkable “machine-kumihimo” method, where a majestic contraption known as the “braiding machine” weaves its magic.

Hand-kumihimo stands as an embodiment of the esteemed craftsmanship both within the borders of Japan and across the globe. However, due to the considerable amount of time and resources required, it is the machine-braided cords that predominantly grace our collections. Yet, let it be known that even with the aid of these contrivances, every step of the process, from selecting and preparing the finest yarns to skillfully setting the threads onto bobbins, still calls for the artistry and expertise of our master craftsmen, honoring the rich heritage of traditional hand braiding.

We are always on the lookout for innovative and creative techniques to enhance the art of kumi-himo while respectfully upholding its rich cultural heritage. Our unwavering commitment lies in exploring more rational and aesthetically pleasing approaches to this traditional craft. By integrating modern elements with the essence of the past, we strive to find a harmonious balance that not only preserves the authenticity of kumi-himo but also captivates contemporary enthusiasts.

In conclusion, our dedication to kumi-himo goes beyond mere craftsmanship. With a deep respect for tradition and an unwavering commitment to innovation, we continuously seek rational and beautiful ways to enhance this ancient art form while staying true to its cultural roots. Together, we can inspire generations to come and ensure the enduring legacy of kumi-himo in the modern world.